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COASTERPRO KEYCHAIN MOLD #1 “Silver Star” Proof of Concept
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For our mold making process we need the following items: * Two-Part Liquid Silicone Rubber Molding Solution (OoMoo 30) * Mold Release Agent (Mann Ease Release 205) * Oil-Based Clay * A Strip of Foam Core Poster Board * Two Paper Cups * Two stirring sticks * A Smooth Non-Porous Surface (Leftover Shelving)
Our subject, the much treasured Silver Star key chain pendant.
Step #1: I first measured the subject to determine the size of the mold box. The silicone product manufacturer recommended that the walls of the mold be at least ˝ inch thick. With this in mind I determined that the mold box should be 2.75L x .75W x 1.25H.
Step #2: I then cut a length of foam core equivalent to the perimeter and height of the box. 8 inches x 0.75 inches. I measured where the corners would be and scored them with a sharp knife.
Step #3: I folded the box and secured it with a rubber band so that I could adjust it until it was square. Precision was not important.
Step #4: With the rubber band holding the box I decided to tape the corner where the ends met. The rubber band could then be removed.
Step #5: I rolled a small amount of clay to a thin string.
Step #6: And then bonded the clay string around the perimeter of the base of the box.
Step #7: I flipped the box over and pressed down gently to adhere it to the surface. I added a bit more clay to the outside to perfect the seal.
Step #8: This is a two part mold so I used a spackle knife to cut a block of clay to fit within the box. The thickness of the block is about .75 inches. The purpose of this block is to hold the model in place in the center of the box and provide a way to produce the parting line.
Step #9: I set the clay block within the box and smoothed around the edges to seal.
Step #10: I gently pressed the model into clay up to the parting line.
Step #11: Then I cut a dowel pressed into the clay to become the fill hole.
Step #12: I missed this step!!! After all the thought I put into this project I forgot to indent registration marks in the clay. Hopefully there will be enough imperfection that it will be alright. (fingers crossed)
Step #13: I sprayed on a light mist of the release agent and let dry.
Step #14: The two part liquid silicone rubber is measured by volume so after estimating the volume of the pour I marked two lines on a stirring stick to the height of each part.
Step #15: Finally it was time to get gooey! I poured the Part A and Part B of the liquid silicone rubber into a cup up to each of the measuring lines on my stick then mixed thoroughly.
Step #16: To ensure the parts are completely combined and that there is no unmixed residue sticking to the sides of the cup the manufacturer recommends pouring the mixed rubber into a second clean container mix some more.
Step #17: To pour, I pinched the cup to create a spout. According to the manufacturer a thin pour is important to avoid air entrapment. So I poured the liquid silicone as thinly and slowly as I could. It took five minutes just to pour this tiny amount. I was probably being overly cautious though.
If you thought Rob Schneider was crazy as a Carrot just wait until you see the trouble he gets into as “The Mold”! Rated G for full frontal nudity.
The Ooomoo 30 liquid silicone goody goody requires 6 bloody hours to set! That puts me at about 4:15 AM, or to put another way, about 2.5 hours into a deep alpha-type sleep state. The type of state which if one were forced to wake up from would result a very predictable regarding of the situation as completely unimportant. This includes checking on the condition of silicone molds as well as fires
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